Adding Value by Dennis O'Hagan

HOME MAINTENANCE TIP: How to Clean and Repair Gutters

RISMEDIA, Monday, April 23, 2012— Cleaning roof gutters is a small task that can prevent big problems. Every spring and fall, thoroughly cleaning your home’s gutters will keep them working like they should. Leaves can build up and clog the downspouts, which can cause water damage to your roof and fascia (board behind the gutter). All that water pouring over the gutters can end up next to your home’s foundation, and maybe in the basement or crawlspace. Follow these simple steps for cleaning your home’s gutters and making simple gutter repairs. Select an appropriate ladder to clean gutters. Use a step ladder if possible. For a two-story home, you may need an extension ladder. For all ladders, make sure the legs are set on a solid and level surface. Removing Debris Begin cleaning the gutter near a downspout. Remove the large debris (leaves, twigs, etc.) with a trowel and dump it in a bucket. To clean out finer materials, flush the gutter lengths with a hose starting at the end opposite the downspout. Alternatively, you can use a gutter-cleaning attachment on a hose. If the water doesn’t drain, recheck the downspout strainer, and clean as necessary. If gutter water still doesn’t drain, the downspout may be clogged. Check the drain end. If the downspout runs underground, remove it from the pipe as needed. Install a small nozzle on the hose and lock it at full pressure. Turn on the water and feed the hose up from the bottom of the spout. If this doesn’t clear the downspout or the nozzle is too big, use a plumber’s snake tool to clear the blockage. Reattach the downspout. Repairing Gutters After flushing the gutter, if there is still standing water, the gutter may not be sloped correctly and will require adjustment. The length of the system should decline at least ¼” every 10’ toward the downspout. If the gutter doesn’t slope enough, detach the hangers and adjust the gutter enough to drain properly, then reattach. It may be easiest to work on small sections at a time to prevent the entire gutter system from falling. Inspect the gutter for obvious damage and missing parts. Support hangers should be spaced every 2’ along the gutter. Repair any leaks in the gutter. Identify gutter leaks by filling the gutter with water, but make sure the gutters have dried before repairing. To repair leaks at the seams, make sure the gutter lengths are tight against each other, and run a bead of gutter sealant on both sides of all joints. To repair leaks at the end caps, add sealant along the inside of the joint. To repair holes in the gutter material, ask a Lowe’s associate for products designed to repair aluminum or fiberglass gutters. Apply gutter touch-up paint to cover any blemishes as desired. If necessary, repaint some or all of the gutters in the home’s exterior color. This article is excerpted from Lowe’s Creative Ideas magazine. For more information, please visit www.lowes.com.

6 rules of curb appeal...

How to beat out competition when selling your home By Paul Bianchina Inman News®

It's that time of year again, when I take a moment to talk to all of you who are thinking of putting your home on the market this spring. If real estate's favorite old adage is "location, location, location," then it's got to be followed closely by, "You get only one chance to make a first impression."

You can't change your home's location, but you can certainly do everything within your power to make that first impression a strong one, so let's go over the basics of that all-important must-have for a successful sale: curb appeal.

Start with a step back

You've seen the outside of your house so many times that you don't really see it anymore. So now's the time to look at it with new eyes, from the perspective of a prospective buyer. And if you can't do it objectively, get a friend, a neighbor or your real estate agent to do it for you.

Put yourself in the buyer's shoes, and make a written list of those things that might raise some concerns for you if you were thinking of buying it. And while the front of the house is the primary focal point, don't overlook the sides and rear of the house as well. Here are some things to keep in mind:

Exterior paint: The color and condition of your home's exterior paint job is one of the single most important things to a prospective buyer. The color makes a visceral impact the moment a buyer walks up, and while you might have thought that the hot pink siding with neon purple trim was a great showcase of your individuality when you painted the house, it's going to severely limit the home's appeal.

And no matter what color the house is, if the paint job is faded and peeling, it's an immediate warning sign to buyers that the house hasn't been maintained, so they'll have their magnifying glass out to look for other defects.

If you're handy with a brush and an airless sprayer, you might just want to undertake a repainting project yourself. A long weekend and a few hundred dollars in paint can make a world of difference in how well the home shows and how quickly it sells.

If you don't want to paint the entire house -- or if it doesn't really need it -- just painting the trim, exterior doors, garage door or window shutters can make a big difference as well.

Roofing: A bad roof is another indicator of a general lack of maintenance, and may point a finger at potential structural and even mold problems resulting from leaks. Roofs are expensive to replace, but depending on your market and your desire to reap top dollar from the sale, you may want to take a hard look at the economics of re-roofing.

Talk with your agent about the pros and cons of re-roofing now versus crediting the cost of a new roof to the buyer in escrow.

Driveway and walkways: Driveways are a pretty dominant feature in most homes. Clean any oil-stained concrete, and repair small cracks before they get larger. For asphalt driveways, a seal-coat can often make a big difference in appearance and help prolong the asphalt as well.

For concrete or asphalt that's badly damaged, it's time to be thinking about replacement. You can replace the driveway with the same material as before, or consider an updated look by using paving stones instead -- they hold up well in all types of weather, and can even be a very satisfying do-it-yourself project.

How about walkways? When someone arrives, is there a clear and safe path to your front door? You may not mind walking across your front lawn, but guests and prospective buyers would definitely prefer a walkway. There are lots of options for creating a new front walkway or replacing an existing one, so check out your home center or some landscaping magazines for ideas.

Landscaping: Are things overgrown? Dead or dying? Obviously neglected? Landscaping is a huge part of that first impression, so remember to take a critical look at it.

• Fertilize and water the lawn regularly to green it up, and run an edger along sidewalks and driveway edges.
• Rake up leaves and pine needles.
• Repair sprinkler systems.
• Prune back or even remove those wild shrubs, and trim overhanging tree branches.
• Use bright flowers to create borders and accent areas that add both color and hominess to the yard.
• Consider adding new shade trees in front, which help a home look more established and appealing. Trees look best planted in odd numbers -- a grouping of three or five for example -- and the folks at your local nursery can help you with proper spacing.

Clean and organize: Finally -- clean! If you're not going to paint, wash down the siding to remove dirt and stains and get it looking fresh and clean. Wash driveways, walkways and patios. If you have a wood deck, consider a complete cleaning to restore the wood to a fresher look.

Wash all the windows, inside and out, and wash the screens as well. Polish doorknobs and light fixtures. Stow all of your garden tools and kids' toys away to remove clutter and potential tripping hazards. Take a trip to the local landfill and dump all the stuff that's accumulated in and around the yard.

Check the night view

One last thing: Check the night view as well. A home that shows well at night really creates an impression. Replace any burned-out lightbulbs, and consider adding a timer or two to keep the lights on a little longer into the evening.

Consider some low-voltage or solar lights to accent front walkways, and maybe provide up-lighting to accent trees and larger shrubbery. Keep a light or two on in the front windows as well, to add to the feeling of coziness and comfort.

Fixing a Leaky Faucet in 8 Easy Steps...

Here is a great article on how to fix a leaky faucet...

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Q: The drip in my bathroom sink is driving me nuts. I live in a 1930s California bungalow. The original faucet is mounted on a pedestal sink. It is a three-piece unit with a spout in the center and hot and cold handles about 8 inches apart. The handles are porcelain with very attractive cone-shaped porcelain escutcheons.  I suppose I could have a plumber replace the faucet, but I'd rather keep it if I can. Short of replacing the fixture, what can I do to stop the drip?

A: When dealing with old houses, our mantra has always been to try to keep the original parts and pieces. We've stripped paint off old baseboards, reconditioned gumwood trim, refurbished old claw-foot tubs and even had old faucets re-chromed.

Fortunately, your problem is easy to fix. Change the washers in the faucet and the drip will go away. No need to replace the fixture, no need to call the plumber. It's a do-it-yourself job that requires only a little know-how, a little time and less than a dollar. Make sure to change the washers in both faucets. Sure as shootin' if one isn't leaking now, Murphy's Law means a new drip is in your future.

Follow these steps:

1. Turn off the water. Look below the sink and you'll probably see two handles attached to a valve with small pipes or hoses leading to each faucet. Turn the handles clockwise to shut off the water to the fixture. Sometimes there aren't shut-off valves under the sink. In that case, shut off the water to the house. In many areas, the main shut-off valve is below a hose bib where the water line enters the house. Again, turn the valve clockwise to shut off the water.

2. Turn the handles of the sink to the full on position to make sure the water is off. When you're sure the water is off, turn the handle clockwise halfway toward the closed position.

3. Remove the handle. Handles are mounted to the stem with a screw. Often screws are hidden under a plastic or metal cover. If so, gently pry off the cover with a thin blade (a utility knife works good), remove the screw and lift off the handle.

4. The faucet stem is secured to the basin with a locknut and perhaps a washer. Replace the handle on the stem and hold it steady while turning the nut counterclockwise to unscrew the locknut from the stem. Remove the handle and the locknut.

5. Replace the handle but not the screw. Remove the stem from the faucet body by turning the handle counterclockwise. Keep turning until the stem can be lifted out of the faucet body. Remove the stem. If the stem threads are bound up, a squirt or two of WD-40 or Liquid Wrench will loosen them.

6. At the bottom of the stem is a hard rubber washer attached by a small screw. It may be flat or it may be cone-shaped. Unscrew the washer. Use a small towel or stopper to cover up the drain. We've skipped this step and have wasted a half hour fishing the screw out of the P-trap. It's likely that the stem has another rubber O-ring to prevent water from oozing up and out of the stem. Rubber washers come in many sizes, so it's best to take the washers to your local hardware store and make sure you get the right matches.

7. With the correct washers in hand, replace the worn-out ones and reassemble the unit. Replace the rubber O-ring, screw in the new faucet washer, screw the stem into the body, install the locknut and reinstall the escutcheon and handle.

8. Finally, turn the water back on and test the faucets. Be gentle; when the water first comes back on, it will spit and gurgle. Nothing is wrong, but if the faucet is full-on open you'll get a spray.

By the way, we've been checking out the "how to" offerings on YouTube. There's no shortage of advice, but as you would expect, the quality is all over the map. Happily, we found one that does a fine job of addressing your leaky faucet issue: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15A0V7lj_Lo.

Winter Maintenance Tips...

Winter is the season we spend the most time indoors and at home. Take care of your biggest investment, your family and your wallet this winter by following these quick tips on home maintenance and safety.

Take Care of Your Heating System
Your heating system runs constantly throughout the cold winter months so it is important to keep it well-maintained to prevent needed repairs and also keep your system running efficiently. 

• Remember to change out your HVAC filter each month. Replacing HVAC filters is crucial to keeping your air clean. Filters clean out pollutants such as molds, skin cells and allergens.
• Check the gas connections, gas pressure, burner combustion and heat exchanger to ensure safety and efficiency. Improper connections are a fire hazard and a dirty burner or cracked heat exchanger causes poor burner operation.

Conserve Precious Heat
Proper insulation of your home is critical to ensure proper heating and conservation of heat to make the most of your heating costs this winter.

• Inspect the insulation in your attic and crawlspaces. Warm air rises and leaves the house through the roof, so focus your insulation efforts on your ceilings and attics. Areas around recessed lights, the attic hatch and plumbing vents should be sealed as they commonly are the main issue in allowing warm air to escape your home.
• Storm windows help heat stay in and cold stay out. If you're on a tight budget and do not already have storm windows, pick up an inexpensive plastic film sheet kit from your local hardware store. These only last one season, but help with insulation efforts. Weather-strip all doors that lead to cold or outside areas.
• Close curtains or shades at night and keep them open during the day, especially in rooms that receive a lot of light and sun. Re-arranging your furniture like couches, chairs, tables and beds away from any exterior walls makes your home seem warmer by putting some distance between you and the cold air. This also leaves room for the air to move around better, making it warmer.  

Be Safe
The cold and snow of winter can create hazardous conditions. Take a moment to plan ahead and prepare your home and family for the worst of what winter can bring.

• Stock up on sidewalk salt and sand (for better traction) and apply generously to all walkways and driveways at the first sign of slick conditions.
• Check your snow shovels for cracks or other damage. Have a backup shovel just in case. When shoveling, push the snow in front of you, if possible. If you need to lift a shovel-full of snow, pick up small amounts and lift with your legs, not your back. Do not toss snow over your shoulder or off to the side.

Outdoor Maintenance
Outdoor home care does not end when winter comes. Even in the cold weather months, your yard still needs maintenance to keep your home safe. 

• Make sure tree and shrub branches are well away from the house and windows. Ice can cause branches to break and damage your home.
• Walk around the outside of your house and do a scan. Check the foundation for small cracks or openings where mice or other pests can sneak in. Seal up any possible entrances to keep these critters out. While outside, clear any snow accumulation off gas meters and away from basement windows and your dryer exhaust vents.

BIG THANKS to Home Warranty of America (HWA) for providing us with this great information.  To learn more about HWA here is their contact information:

Home Warranty of America
P.O. Box 850, Lincolnshire, IL 60069-0850.
Tel: 888-492-7359 or 888-325-5143 (CA only).
Fax: 888-492-7360
www.hwaHomeWarranty.com 

 

 

10 tips for a better caulking job

Caulking seems like a pretty easy thing to do, and all in all it is. But there are some tricks of the trade that can make a big difference between a smooth, hassle-free caulking job and one that's frustrating and perhaps a little sloppier than you'd like. So before your next caulking project, here are a few things to keep in mind.

Gather up a few simple tools

For any caulking job, you need only a handful of basic items, all of which are available at any home center, hardware store or paint store.

First of all, you'll need a good-quality caulking gun. Skip the 99-cent bin and those low-end guns that utilize a ratcheting plunger, easily recognized by the series of notches cut into the plunger's shaft. Ratcheting guns don't operate smoothly, so it's hard to apply a clean, uniform bead.

Instead, for around $10 you can buy a pro-grade gun, which has a couple of moveable plates that grip a smooth plunger rod. The action is much smoother, and it's also easier to release, so you have less wasted caulk dripping out of the tube. Ideally, the gun you select should also have a rotating barrel, a rod for puncturing the caulking tubes, and hook on the end for hanging the gun (more on that in a moment).

In addition to the caulking gun, you'll need a 5-gallon bucket, several rags, a utility knife, and some disposable gloves. If you have large gaps to fill, you'll also need some foam backer rod, as described below.

Prepare the joints

First of all, you need to prepare the areas that you're going to be caulking. Like anything else, if the area is dirty, dusty, wet or filled with debris, you won't get the results you want. Use a brush, putty knife, compressed air, or other appropriate tools and techniques to clean out the cracks you want to caulk. If you're repainting, be sure that any old paint is cleared out. On new wood, be sure the wood is dry and free of sawdust, and has shrunk as much as possible.

The manufacturer's directions on the caulking product you're using will specify how large of a gap that particular caulk will fill without sagging -- typically 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch in width. If you try to fill anything wider that what the caulking is rated for, it will simply sag into the gap or the caulk film will split; either way, it means an unsightly caulking job that's not weathertight.

The solution is to use what's known as a backer rod. This is simply a round foam rod, which is sold by the roll in different diameters. Use a rod that's slightly larger in diameter than the gap, so that it compresses into the opening. Cut the rod to the desired length, then press it into the gap so that it's slightly below the surrounding surfaces. You can then caulk the gap on top of the backer rod, without worrying about the caulk sagging into the gap.

A few simple techniques

One of the easiest ways to ensure that the caulking bead isn't too large and sloppy is to start with a small bead in the first place. To do that, use your utility knife to cut the end of the caulking tube to create an opening that's no larger than the bead you would like to produce. Also, cut the tube at an angle, rather than straight across. A small, angled opening in the tube will produce the cleanest, easiest-to-control caulking bead.

Another simple trick is to keep the end of your caulking tube clean and free of dried caulking. To do that, fill your 5-gallon bucket with enough clean water so that you can hang the caulking gun from the edge of the bucket by its hook and have the end of the tube suspended in the water. That way you can easily transport and store the gun and tube while you're working, without the tip ever drying out.

To apply the caulk, start at one end of the gap you're trying to caulk, then pull the gun toward you as you gently squeeze the trigger. Getting a clean bead is a matter of the right combination of trigger pressure and gun speed, but it doesn't take much to master the technique.

As you start to approach the end of the bead, let up on the trigger pressure, and as you come to the end, press the release button to relieve the pressure on the tube and stop the caulking flow. There's often still going to be a slight flow of caulk out of the end of the tube even when you release the pressure, so have a piece of scrap cardboard available to set the gun on, or hang it back in the bucket and allow the excess to drip back in there.

There are different tools available for smoothing the fresh bead if necessary, but to be honest, most everyone, including the pros, still use their finger. You'll probably want to be wearing gloves to avoid a lot of washing up afterward. Also, when running your finger along those joints, be really careful about picking up a splinter, or cutting yourself on nails or even the sharp edge of old paint.

Keep a damp rag with you at all times. It's the only way to keep your hands, your equipment, and any adjacent surfaces clean. Rinse the rag often, because it will quickly begin to stiffen up as it gets caulking on it. You'll also find that after a short time, rinsing won't do much good any more, and that's when it's time to change both the rag and the water in your bucket. If you remember to do both, you'll find that your entire caulking project runs a lot smoother, and everything stays a whole lot cleaner.

By Paul Bianchina
Inman News™

Let's talk about windows with E. Lee Warren III (Home Inspector)

Windows are one of those things that people don’t think about until they try to open them.  The vast majority of people in North Texas rarely open their windows.  This isn’t a big surprise considering the temperature differences that we see here.  However, most windows are self-lubricating, which means that the hardware is lubricated each time the window is opened and closed.  It is always a good idea to open and close your windows every few months or so, even if you aren’t going to leave them open. 

The other time that people think about their windows is when they fog up due to bad thermal seals.  There are those that make a big issue about thermal seals, but I just don’t happen to be one of them.  Most of the time the thermal seals go bad because the window frame is installed too close to the framing of the adjacent wall.  As the house starts moving around, it starts to twist the window causing the seal to break.  As a result, you lose the energy efficiency that the window was intended to provide.  Let’s say that you replace the pane of glass that is affected.  The root problem is still there in that the window frame is still installed to close to the wall frame.  It is just a matter of time before it happens again.  The only way to fix that issue is to remove the whole window and reinstall it.  The amount of time that it would take to recoup the cost of even replacing the pane versus the energy loss caused by the bad seal is quite lengthy.  A better solution might be to install a solar screen instead.  You will get back the energy efficiency that you lost with the bad seal at a fraction of the cost.  If the seal is so bad that the glass turns white to the point that you can’t see through it, then that may be another issue.  Then it becomes more of a safety issue and should be repaired. 

Keep in mind that there is a lot of energy lost through doors and windows that aren’t sealed properly.  Caulking up the outside of your doors and windows is a small, low-cost item that can save you large amounts in heating and air costs down the road. 

E. Lee Warren III

Licensed Home Inspector

TREC License #8411

Prospect Inspectors, Inc.

469-682-0341

Fireplace Maintenance...

The long days of triple digit heat are finally behind us in the Dallas-Fort Worth area (knock on wood!). As we usher in fall, we need to start thinking ahead. When preparing and inspecting your home for the winter months, be sure to pay special attention to your fireplace. Whether your fireplace is gas, electric, or wood burning, you should always ensure it is clean and properly working. Here are a few helpful hints to guarantee your fireplace is ready for a Dallas - Fort Worth winter.

Chimney Maintenance: Soot buildup from last winter leaves a highly flammable coating on the inside of your chimney. The hotter the fire, the less sticky soot buildup you will have. However, it is inevitable that your chimney will collect soot and creosote. You can clean your chimney yourself using brushes and chimney cleaning chemicals. This do-it-yourself project will run you about $100 for supplies/tools; but, it is highly recommended that you use a certified chimney cleaner. This will cost you anywhere from $100-$300; but, for a fraction of that price ($50-$80) you can have them come inspect your chimney to see if a cleaning is even required. This is a small price for the peace of mind. As a general rule of thumb, you should have your chimney cleaned after every 2 cords of wood burned. If you only use your fireplace sparingly, you may be able to go 2-3 years between cleanings.

Firebox Maintenance: The firebox is the part of the fireplace where the actual wood burning takes place. It is essential that you keep this clean during the non-burning seasons, as well as the winter. You should clean your firebox about once a week.

Chimney and Firebox Repair: Before lighting the first fire of the year, you should inspect your fireplace to ensure that there is no damage. Check the firebox for loose bricks and mortar. Then work your way up to the damper to be certain that all hot ash and smoke will be able to escape up the flue and not into your home. Check the flue (internal part of the chimney) for cracks and buildup. Lastly, check the chimney cap for damage to prevent
water and animals, such as birds, from entering your chimney.

Gas and Electric Fireplaces: It is just as important to keep your non-wood burning
fireplaces clean, especially before the first use of the season. Dust and debris can turn into dangerous combustibles. Make sure all seals/gaskets, pipes, and pilot lights are working properly. Always be vigilant of strange odors that may be coming from your fireplace. Lastly, give all fans and vents a test run to check that they are in good working order. If needed, call a local Dallas-Fort Worth HVAC contractor to have a look and make any necessary repairs.

Fireplaces become the center piece of the home during the winter months. They require and deserve the extra TLC; and, in return will provide warmth and a place for family and friends to gather all winter long. Enjoy your fireplace while you can; summer is right around the corner!

Contact Keith Boggs if you have any questions about the information in this newsletter or to schedule a home inspection at 214-923-7304 or www.spi-guy.com

Let’s Winterize...

This list of fall projects is designed to help you to winterize your home. With the cold season approaching, check out these valuable time- and money-saving tips to protect your home from damage caused by harsh winter weather. Your home is a significant investment and it is important to protect your assets wisely.

Winterizing varies by region. Some people need to be more concerned about snow and ice than others. Regardless of whether weather will be an issue for you this winter, this guide contains tips for regular home maintenance that every homeowner needs to perform. This is by no means a complete list. Only you know what needs to be done. Fall is the perfect time to take a walk around you home, note problem areas and set in motion a plan to correct potential problems before they begin, small problems before they grow, and large problems before they become uncontrollable!

In areas with freezing temperatures, drain and turn off outside spigots. Drain, dry and store garden hoses that you would like to use next season. Clean and store your patio furniture, gas grills and lawn equipment. Check to make sure that no critters are living in your foundation or attic. These are all simple things that you can do to make springtime more enjoyable, regardless of where you live.

Trim Limbs. Fall is the best time of year for trimming back unruly trees. During the winter, ice can form on trees and make the limbs significantly heavier. Therefore, cut back any limbs that touch your home, or they might pose a danger to siding or windows if they become loaded with snow or ice later in the season.

Look Through Your Windows. If your windows are foggy and cleaning them makes no difference, it is probably because a seal has been broken on multi-paned glass. The purpose of that seal is to insulate your home. With winter approaching and heating prices at an all time high, replace or repair window panes that have broken seals.

Patch Cracks. Walk around your home’s exterior and look for cracks in the foundation and missing caulk around windows and other openings. Leaky windows and doors cause homes to lose heat, and they can grow as a result of ice formation in the coldest months. Fill cracks now before the weather gets colder.

Clean Gutter Clutter. This is perhaps one of homeowners’ least favorite chores, but unless you want to install new gutters in the spring, you need to pull out the leaves and other debris in the fall. Many manufacturers offer solutions to cover your gutters and reduce the buildup of debris. They are not foolproof, but if you hate to clean out your gutters they may be worth the investment. Don’t forget the downspouts, where ice can combine with debris to cause bursting and leaking. Gutters and downspouts were developed to keep water away from your home. If you skip this chore, you probably will spend a lot more time mopping the basement floors later in the winter, because all of that water and ice needs has to go somewhere.

Real estate agents know how to spot the difference between well-maintained and neglected homes. Some of the most common areas of neglect are those listed above. Homes that are well-maintained and properly winterized are a hot commodity! Don’t risk your investment by being lax in your upkeep. In just one or two weekends, you can complete all of the items described above. Your home deserves it.

AIR CONDITIONING EQUIPMENT INFORMATION...

• Air Conditioning systems are designed to produce a temperature split or a "Delta-T" on Home Inspection reports, between 15-22 degrees from inside the home measured before and then after the evaporator coil.

• If the temperature split is higher than 22° or less than 15° that indicates that the air conditioning system should be serviced by a licensed HVAC company.

• Achieving a temperature differential inside your home of 28-30 degrees from the outside ambient temperature is more than optimal. The ability of your A/C is highly determined by the age of the unit and the energy efficiency of your home.

• Attic temperatures, in summer, are 140 degrees and UP. Therefore, air conditioning technicians are experiencing high volumes of heat exhaustion. Companies are struggling to keep them healthy enough to keep working.

When and IF it ever rains, exterior equipment cannot be serviced or installed because it is too dangerous for the technicians and rain can compromise the equipment. Additionally, the pressure readings are taken outside and it cannot be accomplished in the rain so servicing the A/C system would more than likely be a failed attempt.

BIG THANKS to NATIONS Home Warranty for this valuable information.  You can check out their website at http://www.home-warranty.com. 

Get the most out of your AC unit...

The temperatures are on the rise, which means that your electric bills we be rising as well.  The largest consumption of electricity in the summer is from our air conditioning units.  Prepare yourself as best as possible to keep your house cooler, while keeping that bill lower.  Make sure you change your filters regularly.  Having a clean filter will ensure that the system can draw enough air through the system to allow it to function properly.  Make sure your ducts are sealed properly.  Check where the ducts connect to the system and make sure you don’t have air leaking out into your attic.  This is one of those rare situations where you can actually use duct tape on ducts.  Scary thought I know. 

If you have the means, check the temperature of the unit while it is running.  When the air conditioner is running the unit should lower the temperature of the air by between 15 and 20 degrees.  Anything outside of that range means the unit is not functioning properly, and you should have an HVAC technician service the system.

Most of you will have vent registers on your ceiling.  Most of those have levers on them to open and close the vent.  If you have rooms that are colder than others, then you can open and close these to better balance the system out.  The rooms that are colder, you can close the damper off about 50%.  This will force more air into the other rooms that aren’t getting as cool.

Your condenser unit is on the outside of the house.  The Freon line should be completely covered with black foam insulation.  If it isn’t, you can go to your local hardware store and purchase for pretty cheap.  Make sure that line is insulated or the line can freeze up and make your unit less efficient.  Also check the fins around the unit.  The side closest to the house tends to get dirty.  Clogged fins can restrict air flow coming into the unit.  Make sure to keep these clean.

I hope this helps keep your AC units running at peak efficiency. 

E. Lee Warren III

Licensed Home Inspector

TREC License #8411

Prospect Inspectors, Inc.

469-682-0341